Antioxidants

The skin is the organ designated to protect the human body from the environment. Therefore it must bear the brunt of external “oxidative stress”. Oxygen-based molecules are actually dangerous to living cells. Oxygen is more than just an element that is essential for life. It is also a toxic, poisonous, dangerous gas. Oxygen is both the boon and bane of life on Earth. There are many examples of oxygen’s assault on nearly all materials including rusting of metal or the cut surface of an apple turning brown. Therefore, oxygen’s effect on aging skin is significant.

Skin aging is a complex process that is a consequence of both intrinsic aging or genetically programmed aging that occurs with time and extrinsic aging caused by environmental factors.

Intrinsic aging accounts for the skin changes that are the result of the normal process of aging. This causes thinning of the skin with loss of elasticity and reduction in the number of blood vessels, hair follicles, and sweat glands. The skin becomes dry and fine wrinkles develop due to thinning of the collagen in the dermis.

Extrinsic aging is a process caused by external factors, usually as a result of exposure to outdoor agents. These include ultraviolet radiation from the sun, cigarette smoke, air pollution, cold, heat, dust, and smog. Poor diet, lack of exercise, poor sleep habits, stress and illness can also impact skin aging. Of all of the extrinsic causes, ultraviolet radiation from the sun has the strongest negative effect on the skin and is often referred to as photoaging. Even small doses of sunlight exposure will accumulate over time and lead to long-term effects. The effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin are profound and are estimated to account for up to 90% of the changes attributed to skin aging. Not only can excessive sun exposure accelerate skin aging, it can also lead to skin cancers. It is estimated that 90% of all skin cancers are directly related to sun exposure.

Photoaging, also called photodamage, appears as rough skin, mottled hyperpigmentation, and decreased elasticity. The skin may also develop an overall leathery appearance. Yellowing and coarsening of the skin, known as solar elastosis, may become evident. Coarse wrinkles on the forehead and around the eyes are associated with photodamage.

Damage to the skin is done by “free radicals” that are created by these external factors. Free radicals are atoms or molecules with one or more unpaired electrons that create instability in their structure. Free radicals are always trying to either give away or gain an electron to achieve molecular stability. These molecules are short lived and react at the place where they are created. The most widely studied free radicals are called reactive oxygen species (ROS) and have significant damaging effects on the skin, creating what is called “oxidative stress” in the skin. Cells have many built-in mechanisms such as naturally occurring cellular antioxidants to alleviate oxidative stress. However, as our skin ages it becomes depleted of these antioxidants.

Antioxidants are molecules that prevent damage to cells from oxidative stress and are thus vital defenses in the continuous fight against aging. They neutralize toxic free radicals before they can cause harm. During times of high oxidative stress, the body’s natural antioxidants are overwhelmed and excess damage can occur. Both oral and topical antioxidants will increase the body’s natural supply of antioxidants. They prevent excess damage by strengthening the body’s natural defenses.

Sunscreens are not 100% effective at blocking ultraviolet light. Therefore, some UV rays do get through to cause free radicals and damage. Once free radicals are formed, sunscreens will not prevent further damage. Therefore, sunscreen use alone without antioxidants is insufficient to fully prevent sun damage. Research studies have shown that use of an effective topical antioxidant can provide additional protection from oxidative damage, slow skin aging and improve skin appearance.

The oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) score was developed to measure the oxidative stress protection capacity of food and is now used for topical cosmetic products as well. This provides the foundation of an antioxidant rating system for consumers to judge the potency of their skin care products.

A new, natural antioxidant extract derived from the whole coffee fruit has recently been developed. This extract, called CoffeeBerry®, has been shown to have one of the highest ORAC scores of all naturally derived antioxidants. It is for this reason that Revaléskin Night Cream receives our highest recommendation for use as a topical antioxidant protective cream. Other products that give exceptional antioxidant protection are: Journée by Neocutis which contains Human Growth Factors, green tea extract, vitamins C + E, and melanin; SkinCeuticals C+E Ferulic which contains vitamins C and E combined with ferulic acid to give excellent antioxidant protection. All of these products show results that are backed by medical science. When making your choice, simply looking at the list of ingredients alone does not help in choosing the right topical antioxidant. They must be proven by medical science to remain “active” once they are applied to your skin.

A new potent oral antioxidant called Heliocare by Biopelle uses a natural fern extract as a dietary supplement. When taken daily it offers significant photoprotection.

Comparative top antioxidant ORAC scores:

• CoffeeBerry® Extract 15,000 - 17,500
• Green Teas 1,200 - 11,000
• Pomegranate Extract 2,500
• Vitamin C 1,900
• Vitamin E 1,400